Yemen Part II

So with all this information you are ready to land in Yemen. Not a wise choice, but then if that's what puts the soda in the whiskey, that's what it'll be. Like they say in french.. if you want french fries, grow potatoes.

The arabic word for a gateway or a door is 'Bab'. So we have Bab Al this and Bab al That. Now presenting, and not to be missed set of puns follow. Click here to skip the jokes

What is the door to Bob Cristo's house called
- Bab al Bob
What will The Doors be called if they were a Yemeni band
- Babs
What nursery rhyme has led to addled brains among yemeni kids
- Baba baba black sheep. (door door black sheep - does this make sense!!!)

Most middle eastern countries have an old market - called Souq. The souq is a treasure trove of great food, extremely warm people and great finds. A visit is a must. There is a Bab al Yemen in the old Souq and it's a great photo op. Another great souq is the Hammidiyeah in Damascus, which serves a really mean cuisine. Subhan Allah

In one of my travels, I happened to stay at Sheraton Aden, which has a nice Indian restaurant. The dinner there (and others too) have made me conclude that the best way to wash down Indian food (made of any paneer, chicken, dal makhani, navratan kofta and onion), is a Johnnie Walker Red Label with Lehar Soda. I've burped many meals and their memory is enough to add inches to my girth.

On a different note, i've not been able to pair Idli & Dosa with any liquor. Suggestions are welcome.

Now, the other city is Aden, made famous by Dhirubhai's stay there. Aden has a large Indian migrant population called Adeni Indians.

Apart from this naturalized Indians is a large expat population. And doing all sorts of jobs. A city in the mountains Tai'z has an Indian doctors run hospital and loads of Indian professionals working for a Yemeni group. Hodeidah has over 400 Indian families, working with small time local businesses.

This is not your rich diaspora of South London, or the IIM passouts in California or Singapore or even the MCAs punching in code in their 4 sq ft of lifetime. This is a set which left India for better times and landed in Yemen. Staying at home wouldn't have been an option. I met a teacher (tambrahm - who else) retired from a government college in chennai in a flight from Sana'a to Aden. The gent was over 50, had left his wife and daughter in Chennai and had been working in a local college for the last three years. Clearly money was better here. He was returning from India and dear wife had packed him all sorts of chutney and masalas. He also carried a new paid of Bata slippers. We talked a lot and he kept calling me 'Saar'. I was truly amazed.

Then there were the waiters and bell boy in Aden, the shipping guys in Hodeida and the professionals in Ta'iz. In their split family units, this set really brings out a man's struggle to bring better time for his family. And I don't think the wife has it any better at home.

Now to food. The two civilization which are still hostile to dead animals are the Yemeni and the Bangladeshis. Both have an avaracious appetite for meat and fish, and both masticate with such venegance, as if any less and the animal will walk away.

The Yemeni cuisine comprises killing the animal or fish with bare hands, guns, daggers all allowed. burning it to the bones and then eating it with the most heavenly bread known to mankind. Yes. The Yemeni bread, is an acquantaince of the Na'n only much lighter and layered and sprinkled with black sesame seed. It remains a mystery that a nation so deprived of basis culinary skills can come up with a bread like Malooj.

To women. Not much. All covered and appearing as small black tents on wheels. This country is heavily into Purdah and honor killing. So I didn't find out much.

Lastly Erotica. The Taj Awsan in Hodeida, subscribes to a cable network which illustrates kamasutra as practised by Germans every night 11 pm till the morning prayers. So all engineering graduates, book your tickets now. Direct flight on Yemenia from Mumbai to Sana'a and then a short ride on the hills to Hodeida.